I thought I hated Greek food. I don’t like olives. I’d always imagined the food here to have a dirty martini vibe. Instead, this country has delivered a culinary tour de force. Don’t get me wrong- there is a solid amount of olives rolling around these islands. But mostly they’ve been deliciously transformed into oil. Oil that’s used in everything: baking feta, mashing fava, frying squash blossoms, saganaki’ing saganaki.