The wax is dripping off this candelabra and spattering onto the table like paint from a clumsy artist’s brush. I cowered into this pub to escape the drizzle and was pleasantly greeted by a perfect pen-to-paper, candlelit atmosphere. I haven’t had the energy or desire since I’ve been here to tourist-it-up. Instead, I’ve been perfectly content simply dublin’in around this tiny, big city and looking in on all its McPubs leaking banjos, fiddles and Guinness out the cracks.

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